How To Mask Rubber Trim When Painting

CLEANING AND PAINTING TIPS

Painting tips from me will be about every bit basic as it gets, I'm no expert. Surface prep is where the average paint task fails to look as good or final as long equally it should. Painting over dirt and loose paint is just wrong. Every bit of time spent (scraping, sanding, cleaning) is time well spent. There may still be times when there is a piffling paint left in the gun after spraying some parts. In that case, doing a quick grit-off and respray of some running boards, or pedals on another tractor is improve than dumping the extra pigment on the ground. The photo higher up shows two extremes. Lots of time and endeavor was spent on the sheetmetal, but the transmission and rear castings were just a quick spray-over.

If y'all desire a evidence-quality finish, there is no substitute for stripping everything to metal. If all you desire is a ameliorate looking tractor, stripping everything to bare metal is not necessary. Seal all openings. Remove or cover the carb, distributor, and electrical parts and give the tractor a good power-washing. You volition need some scrapers and wire brushes to help remove caked-on gunk. Ability Washing is not the preferred method of cleaning your tractor on a regular basis. Frequent power washing will thoroughly screw up carburetors, distributors, air cleaners, gauges, and electric components. Painting requires removal of all dirt and grease so power washing may be the best way to remove near of the stuff that collects on whatsoever tractor. The spray nozzle will also boom abroad whatsoever loose pigment.

The tractor will shortly wait a lot ameliorate, merely in that location will still be dirt and loose paint. Use any is handy and seems appropriate to get into the nooks and crannies. Pocket-size picks scrapers and stiff brushes will plough up a lot of areas that need additional attending. Sand any old paint drips or sags. Sand edges of chipped areas to blend with adjacent surface. If chipped areas continue to flake-off, the old paint is loose and needs to come off. Go on scraping and sanding until the stop is smoothen to bear on. Now is the time to do whatever torso-work or cast iron repairs. Information technology is possible to braise or weld cast iron. Yous tin can even use liquid metallic epoxy for some repairs.

Now is the time to decide how much time will exist spent on bodywork. It takes little attempt to make the cast iron parts expect good. Sheet metal parts are a lot more than difficult to finish well. Some people tin can feel if a panel is polish, others like to spray a quick coat of primer to see if more than work is necessary. Information technology is generally easier to end small parts and all sheetmetal parts separately. Disassembly may be easier than trying to mask everything. Different color parts finished separately e'er look much better than any masking job. Sheetmetal can even be taken to a body shop if the damage appears to be more than y'all want to bargain with.

Refinishing small parts such every bit carb castings, headlights, brackets, linkage, etc. can be time-consuming. Prepping for paint, waiting for primer to dry out, then waiting for terminate coats to dry out might significantly delay being able to reassemble those parts. Powder-coating is ane way to refinish parts that required almost no drying fourth dimension. Every bit soon as the parts are cool enough to touch, they are ready to exist reassembled.

Powder-Coating

Many years ago Eastwood ran a sale on their entry-level HotCoat Powder Gun and Starter Kit. Their gun requires compressed-air and a standard electrical outlet to run. No problem. Nosotros bought a new toaster-Oven for the kitchen so I could have the onetime one to apply out in the shop for powder-coating. The Eastwood Gun worked well and their powder paint is superior to whatsoever other brand that I've tried. The Eastwood powders just seem to apply better with fewer issues.

Powder-Coating does crave stripping parts to bare metallic. That takes some time, just not nearly as much every bit waiting for primer and paint to dry. It is best to pre-heat parts for a few minutes to broil out any wet or oil that may still be present later normal prep. Pulverization sticks better to warm parts. Wear gloves and do not touch parts with bare hands before applying powder. Pull the part(due south) out of the oven, and wipe down with a clean rag. Notice a way to move coated parts into the oven without knocking the powder off. Some parts can sit on a metallic grate or tray. Other parts can be handled ameliorate with wire hooks. Annihilation used to coat and place parts in the oven volition also become powder-coated.

Pulverization contains hardeners that can irritate skin and certainly should non exist sucked into your lungs. Health concerns are like to many of the chemicals and grit we create in the shop. A large cardboard box makes a pretty expert 3-sided spray "booth" that makes cleanup a lot easier and can permit some powder to be salvaged. The Eastwood gun worked ok until a different style turned upward on clearance at Sears. This identical pulverisation gun has been sold by several companies. Eastwood may even take sold them for a short fourth dimension. They are very cheaply made and easily cleaved, but if treated carefully they volition last many years. I've never paid more than $25. These guns utilize an internal fan rather than an air compressor. One tiny wire from the transformer ways the gun is a lot easier to use and simply works better than many more expensive guns.

The absolute best thing near pulverisation-blanket is after 20 minutes in the oven it'southward completely Washed. Open the door and it takes very few minutes for the parts to cool enough to handle. The coating is tough and seems to be more than fuel resistant than any paint. Color choices were good enough to match upwards a practiced Ford Red, a gray, black, and I've tried several chrome finishes. Powder colors can be mixed but the results can be strange if not thoroughly mixed. Powder-coated lug nuts turned-out well and durable enough using a 6-point socket. Powder does add thickness, so a heavy application on basics and bolts could make it difficult to fit the right socket or wrench on them.

Plating

Chrome Plating is ordinarily way beyond my budget and is not a process anyone should be doing at dwelling. Chrome plating is very cool. . Ceramic coating may be the all-time possible finish for exhaust manifolds and head pipes. It isn't "plating" only it's another procedure that the parts demand to be sent off to have done. Tin-Zinc plating is something that tin be done at home. Zinc plating requires and acid solution then it isn't something you want splashed or spilled. Some of the parts placed in my electrolysis tank over the years have emerged with a bit of copper plating. If the copper clamp to the sacrificial metal falls into the tank, it becomes the sacrifice and some of the copper did appear as a lite plating on the role I was cleaning. This gave me the idea to look into zinc plating. The process is like to electrolysis. Eastwood sells a minor tin-zinc plating kit that works really well to restore some of the special nuts and bolts on these tractors. Dissimilar electrolysis, the tin-zinc process uses an electrolyte solution that contains Sulphuric Acrid. The parts come out with a grey blanket that can be polished to wait like new shiny zinc hardware. Unfortunately, the coating does non seem to last every bit long as new hardware. Tin-Zinc plating is however a good option for hardware tha cannot be easily replaced.

Unpainted Items

Nothing spells "amateur" better than overspray on tires, or painted wiring and safe parts. Things that should remain unpainted should be carefully masked or removed. At that place are several spray-on products that make tires wait like new. In fact, a fiddling dish detergent and water scrubbed on tires does as well as many of the sprays, costs less, but is more piece of work. I accidentally discovered that the lanolin manus cleaner works better than anything else to restore smaller rubber things similar plug wires and shift boots. The Ford 3000 pictured in a higher place came with difficult plastic shift knobs and steering wheel cap. Rather than attempt to brand those look skillful, I turned new ones from barracks aluminum on my lathe, so polished them till they look like chrome.

PAINTING - with Air Compressor, Rattle Cans, or Brush

Many very nice pigment jobs have been washed with rattle cans or even a brush. Using a spray gun does not guarantee a amend chore. If you already accept an air compressor, a spray gun is a adept investment. I quart tin can of pigment, applied with a spray gun, volition encompass as much as nearly 12 rattle cans. Painting with a brush takes much longer and generally uses a lot more paint than spraying. For pocket-sized parts and small jobs, it's difficult to beat the convenience of rattle cans.

Sadly, my long time exclusive preference for Rustoleum "Stops Rust" spray paint has ended. Rustoleum was always my first pick for metal, and e'er gave good results. Unfortunately, when they redesigned the nozzles away from the universal tiny male person spray heads, the Rustoleum spray cans no longer piece of work for me. Paint or primer, the new cans just spatter, sputter, drip, and clog. The nozzle tin can be cleaned, but so every single Rustoleum spray tin can clogs internally with 25 to 50 percent of the pigment still in the can. After collecting a dozen or so partially full cans that will no-longer squirt, I got tired of wasting money and started buying Krylon spray cans. Over the concluding two years I've not had a single Krylon paint or primer spray tin fail to piece of work every bit it should.

Concluding Prep. and Primer

No affair how you programme to apply the finish coats, always use a good primer that is compatible with the paint you are going to use. Paint applied to bare metallic without primer will presently showtime to chimera flake, and peel. Spend some time making certain the surfaces are clean, smooth, primed, and ready for paint. This is the step that has the most event on the quality of the finish. First with 1 light coat of primer. And then carefully audit the advent. How proficient did y'all do on the bodywork? Small imperfections can be filled with primer by spot-painting them and lightly-sanding until the primer fills the low spot. Tractor canvass metal is plenty thick enough for traditional hammer and dolly work. Some folks volition utilize a skim glaze of bondo and then sand the panel, leaving bondo only in the low spots. I believe that is going way likewise far for a working tractor. I'm happy if the panels are more often than not straight. A few small dents add grapheme, grin. Once you are satisfied with the bodywork, shoot i low-cal coat of primer on everything. Permit it dry thoroughly, so sand with fine (180-220) grit newspaper, or use clean steel wool. Finally, just earlier spraying the get-go finish colour, get over the surface with a clean rag and mineral spirits to remove any dust or oils. A single oily finger print can mess-upward the finish. If you are painting in the nifty outdoors, endeavour to pick a day with low winds, not too much sun, and few bugs. Proficient luck with that. When I'm fix to pigment I paint. My 8N is nicknamed "BUGS" for all the gnats in the paint.

Finish Painting

If using an air compressor and spray gun, one quart of primer and one quart of each colour is plenty to do the 8N red-belly paint scheme with two coats of the finish colors. If you desire more coats or shoot much thicker coats, get two quarts of each color. For nearly working tractor pigment jos, my advice is to skip hardeners and other paint additives. Paint fumes are bad enough without adding more than toxic substances. Few dwelling shops accept the proper booth, vesture, respirators, and other equipment required to shoot paint with additives. That stuff can kill yous D-E-D dead, or make you wish y'all were expressionless. Get the material safe information sheets for any paint additives you think you want to utilize. Only do a spider web search for the product and add MSDS to the search. If yous get sensitized to some of these products, it may put y'all in the infirmary and cause permanent wellness issues. Information technology but isn't worth the gamble for a one-shot deal on a working tractor. Leave additives to the folks painting show cars who have the proper safety equipment. Finally, the benefits provided by additives are completely wasted on a working tractor. A good quality enamel will last at to the lowest degree 10 years and still clean upward well (if you ever bother to launder the dirt off your working tractor). It's been well over ten years since I painted my 8N and 2N. None of the warts they have nerveless over the years would have been prevented by adding hardener to the paint. Hardener volition not foreclose pigment from wearing off pedals and footboards.

With most paint guns the paint must be thinned for spraying. My spray gun seems to like thinning with five% mineral spirits (that works out to calculation 1.half-dozen ounces of mineral spirits to i quart can of paint). There is plenty room in the quart paint can to add together the thinner, put the chapeau back on, and shake it up. Information well-nigh thinning and spray tip size should exist printed on the paint can. The newer HVLP spray guns create a lot less overspray than the older type of equipment that I use. If you adjust the HVLP gun correctly, you should be able to become good coverage with a lot less overspray. You still need a mask to go along overspray out of your lungs. For a i-time bargain, painting ooutside, with good ventilation, the disposable masks work ok, the ones with filters piece of work better.

Articulate Coat

A cheap clear pigment will turn xanthous, crack, scrap, and mostly look ugly much faster than apparently enamel and decent quality vinyl decals volition last without clear coat. Expert quality vinyl or water-transfer type decals last nigh the same time equally pigment for me (five-10 years). In that location are dissimilar grades of vinyl and some inks are more UV resistant than others. Inexpensive vinyl decals will soon start to curl at the edges, and quickly fade.

Afterward experimenting with several articulate coat products, most accept created more than bug than they fixed. In theory, a adept articulate coat should provide additional UV protection, provide a deeper shine, and stay shiny much longer. This works really well for modern automotive base coat, articulate glaze finishes. Information technology is very difficult to practice a adept base glaze, articulate coat finish in the typical garage/barnyard. The better articulate glaze products cost at least $20 to $25 for one rattle can, and about $xxx for a quart. Adding clear coat more than doubles the cost of merely spraying enamel. Some of my clearcoat projects have turned out great, and were worth the effort/expense. Some have been a complete failure.

Correct COLORS

Some purists may whine about green and xanthous Fords or 9N tractors painted with the Red-Abdomen paint scheme. Tough, this is your tractor, so feel complimentary to paint it any colors you lot choose. I believe the best value is to stay with original colors. Any time to come restorer is going to strip whatsoever paint is at that place and kickoff over. No-thing what color yous apply any paint will protect the metallic.

One story going effectually is that Barn Sparrows had been making such a mess of the Nighttime Grayness 9N paint that Ford wanted a new color for the 8N that would non contrast as much. Yuck, thankfully I accept non found any official reference to "Sparrow Poop Gray Paint" ever existence an official Ford colour. Some say the ruby-red was to make rust less noticeable. That rumour seems like something that might have been created by the John Deere social club.

Trying to match original colors is difficult. Modern paints are very different, and perform much amend than the original pigment. Nothing y'all buy today will announced EXACTLY the same every bit the original finish under all types of lighting, and it certainly won't age the same. What looks correct in your garage might not expect correct in the sun. Camera and monitor settings vary then much I oftentimes go different looking colors in photos of the same tractor, taken nether the same lights, a few minutes apart. Not surprisingly, in that location is a lot of disagreement betwixt the diverse experts near the best match for original colors. Some have their paint custom-mixed to lucifer the colour on a role that has been protected from dominicus and weather. I put very little faith in the theory that paint on the back side of a part has not changed color in 50 years or more. Even hidden from sunlight, sometime paint has been exposed to temperature changes, humidity, fuel vapors, oil, ... Nosotros could go to the local New Holland dealer to buy "original color" paint. By all accounts the Ford Red sold by New Holland dealers is too orange for the 8N tractors. It may be correct for the '01 series tractors that started around 1957. The New Holland "Ford Blue" is certainly not the same color used on the older Ford tractors. I adopt to use readily available standard paint colors that come reasonablt close. There are more than enough colors bachelor. In some cases there are "Farm and Implement" colors that may be closer than annihilation else off the shelf.

Ford Tractor Colors:

MX700790	M1722;
Ford 3000	8N-Red	8N-Gray	9N/2N
Krylon Ford Tractor Blue 1936	Rust-Oleum - 7762 Sunrise Cherry-red	Rust-Oleum Mix - 7786+7770	Rust-Oleum - 7786 Smoke Gray
PPG/Ditzler: 12908	PPG/Ditzler: 70205	PPG/Ditzler: 30448	PPG/Ditzler:
Tisco: TP 360	Tisco: TP 2822	Tisco: TP 245	Tisco: TP 2888
Van Sickle Ford Bluish 466	Van Sickle Ford Cherry-red 480	Van Sickle Ford Grayness 457	Van Sickle Ford Dark Grayness 475

Sherwin Williams: J5-1837

The get-go row of color swatches to a higher place is the RGB color codes taken from various published Ford color lawmaking charts. The 2d row of colors is the RGB codes for the colors I employ. This is only intended to show how shut I can become to the "existent" colors using off the shelf pigment. The colors I cull are by and large slightly lighter in colour because the original paint very quickly faded to a lighter color. I feel choosing the lighter shade is closer to what a fairly new working tractor would expect similar in the wild. Different computer screens testify the aforementioned colors differently. Even the aforementioned screen with slightly dissimilar adjustments will not show the same colors. And then comparing "live" colors to anything on a computer screen is mostly a waste of time. My color swatches in the nautical chart in a higher place were created by going to diverse manufacturers web sites and getting the internet color codes they utilize for their swatches. I believe the manufacturers spend a lot of fourth dimension choosing internet colour codes that should await closest to the real colors. I believe this is the best fashion to compare pigment colors on-line, even when the colors may not display correctly. If the colour I want is a little less bright, or a little less blue than a known colour, I can compare manufacturers RGB color codes to notice something that should expect better. This method has been worked well for me, but I still test colors by getting one rattle can, or a pint to see the existent color on real parts.

My 52-8N Colors:

I decided to stick with what I know and utilise Rust-Oleum "Stops Rust" paint. I take had good performance in the past with this brand and their useless rattle cans do non affect how the quarts spray and perform. Rust-Oleum used to take a color 7755 Light Olive, that I believe was very shut to the right Ford Light Gray, but information technology was not available anywhere in this area. They used to list the colour on their web site, only information technology is no longer even listed. For the 52, I decided to get a quart of Rust-Oleum 7786 Smoke Greyness, and mix it fifty:fifty with a quart of 7792 Gloss White. The color I concluded upwards with was a picayune besides light, only since the correct color tends to fade to white, information technology was not a bad pick. The thought was to find an easy mix that would be like shooting fish in a barrel to repeat for touch-up or replaced parts.

My 46-2N Colors:

After all that, the 46-2N should have been easy, simple, dark gray, right? Nope, that would be too easy. I decided to go with the 8N paint scheme. This time, for the calorie-free gray, I used a quart of Rust-Oleum 7786 Smoke Gray, mixed l:50 with a quart of 7770 Almond. The colour I ended up with lookes better, and is still very easy to find and make again.

COLORS OF PARTS - 9N 2N 8N TRACTORS

The post-obit table has all the information I could find regarding original colors of diverse parts. This table is good for the vast majority of these tractors. HOWEVER, The earliest 9N tractors were very unlike from almost other 9N tractors. There was more chrome on the very early on tractors (radiator cap, gauge bezels, choke knob). The early 9Ns besides used a iv spoke Ford truck steering wheel with a chrome hub cap. Later tractors used a 3 spoke steering bike with an exposed chrome washer and nut.

Function NAME	8N	9N/2N
Air Cleaner	Red	Dark Grey
Beam Housings	Blood-red	Dark Greyness
Axle Hubs	Red	Dark Grey
Battery Cable	Black Insulation	Black Insulation
Battery Cover	Blood-red with Decal	NA
Battery Tray	Red	Night Greyness
Battery/Fuel Door Knob	Black	Chrome
Battery/Fuel Door	Lt Gray	Dark Greyness
Brake Drums	Blood-red	Nighttime Grayness
Brake Pedals	Red	Nighttime Gray
Breather Cap	Red	Nighttime Gray
Cable Terminals and Hardware	Unpainted	Unpainted
Carburetor	Red or Unfinished	Unfinished
Choke Knob	Unpainted Metallic or Black	Unpainted Metal or Black
Clutch Pedal	Red	Night Gray
Cylinder Head	Red	Dark Grayness
Dash Panel	Red	Dark Grey
Distributor Cap	Unfinished	Unfinished
Drag Link	Red	Night Gray
Drawbar	Cherry	Dark Greyness
Engine Block	Red	Nighttime Gray
Fan Belt	Black Condom	Blackness Safe
Fan Shroud	Red	Dark Gray
Fan	Reddish	Night Greyness
Fender Brackets	Lt Gray	Nighttime Gray
Fender Mounting Bolts	Cad Plated	Cad Plated
Fenders	Lt Gray	Night Gray
Ford Emblem	Red with Chrome Script and Edge	Blue with Chrome Script and Border
Front Axle Extension	Carmine	Nighttime Gray
Front Hubs	Red	Night Gray
Front Rims	Lt Gray	Dark Gray
Front Timing Cover	Red	Dark Grey
Fuel Line	Unpainted-Steel	Unpainted-Steel
Fuel Tank	Cadmium-Plated	Cadmium-Plated
Gearshift Boot	Black Rubber	Black Rubber
Gearshift Knob	Cherry 1-Piece (early) Blackness Plastic (later)	Dark Gray
Gearshift	Carmine	Dark Greyness
Generator	Crimson	Nighttime Gray
Grill	Lt Gray	Dark Gray
Basis Strap	Unpainted	Unpainted
Guage Faces	Black-White Letters	Black-White Letters
Guage Trim	Black	Black
Headlight Housings	Lt Grayness - Plated Screws	Dark Gray - Plated Screws
Hood Side Skirts	Lt Gray	Dark Gray
Hood	Lt Gray	Dark Grayness
Ignition Switch	Unpainted	Unpainted
Lite Switch	Unpainted	Unpainted
Lug Nuts	Zinc Plated	Zinc Plated
Manifold	Unknown	Unknown
Muffler and Pipe	Zinc Plated	Zinc Plated
Oil Filter Bolt	Zinc Plated	Zinc Plated
Oil Filter Housing	Cherry-red	Dark Gray
Oil Pan	Reddish	Dark Grey
Position Control Lever	Red	NA
Proofmeter Confront	Black-White Letters	NA
Proofmeter Trim	Black	NA
PTO Knob	Red or Apparently	Dark Greyness
PTO Lever	Red	Dark Grayness
PTO Shaft Cover	Scarlet	Dark Gray
Radiator Cap	Black	Chrome?
Radiator Hose	Black Rubber	Black Safe
Radiator	Black	Blackness
Radius Rods	Red	Dark Gray
Rear Terminate Housing	Red	Dark Gray
Rear Rims	Zinc Plated	Zinc Plated
Rear Wheel Centers	Lt Gray	Dark Gray
Running Boards	Red	Nighttime Gray or None
Seat & Spring	Blackness	Dark Grey
Spark Plug Wire Tube	Cadmium-Plated	Cadmium-Plated
Spark Plug Wires	Unpainted-Black	Unpainted-Blackness
Spark Plugs	Unpainted	Unpainted
Starter Push button	Unpainted-Steel	Unpainted-Steel
Starter	Reddish	Dark Gray
Steering Bicycle Nut	Plated Acorn Nut	Plated Acorn Nut
Three-Point Hitch Arms	Crimson	Nighttime Gray
Throttle Lever Base	Cadmium-Plated	Cadmium-Plated
Throttle Lever	Cadmium-Plated	Cadmium-Plated
Tie Rods	Red	Dark Grey
Timing Cover Bolts	Zinc Plated	Nighttime Gray
Toolbox	Red	Dark Grayness
Touch Command Lever	Red	Dark Gray
Transmission Housing	Cherry-red	Dark Gray
Valve Covers	Red	Dark Gray
Wire Harness	Unpainted	Unpainted

Later painting, the hardware used to attach sheet metallic and other parts during concluding associates was by and large merely standard Cad-Plated hardware.

The Manifold is shown every bit UNKNOWN in the table because they may have been plainly castings or painted. I accept not been able to nail this downwards. It is almost meaningless anyway. Even if they were painted, the paint soon burns off the exhaust portion of the manifold. If you lot don't similar rusty bandage iron, the all-time production I have institute is a loftier temp natural bandage atomic number 26 coating for manifolds sold past Eastwood. Every other how-do-you-do-temp coating I have tried fails as before long equally I become the exhaust expert and hot. Idling effectually won't get the frazzle that hot, so your trailer queen's exhaust might look nice longer. Putting a load on the engine for more than xx minutes will melt off most hi-temp finishes. Even chrome plating tends to turn blue. Ceramic coatings are supposed to be able to withstand the rut, but the toll is way beyond what I'm willing to spend to exam that theory.

In general all hardware belongings the major castings together was painted when the assembly was painted. The next photograph is sort of what the 8N tractors looked like on the assembly line when they were painted.

This is as far as I get unless the tractor needs to be split to supersede the clutch or prepare something else major. If that is necessary, I expect to prime and paint the tractor afterward I take it dorsum to this indicate again. Some restorers prime and pigment each casting separately. And so paint again, subsequently the major parts are assembled to cover scratches and hardware. I don't know if going that far on a tractor has any real value, only the guys who do go to that level turn out some incredibly nice tractors, like this ane:

Restored Tractor by Derek Barkley at Just8Ns.com

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